Finding the Right Bagno For You

It's summer here in Trieste and you know what that means: going to the "bagno." You're thinking: I do that every day several times, but in Trieste andare al bagno means to go to the beach. It's all in the preposition.

First, remember that in Trieste beach has nothing to do with sand. If you are into sand, you will have to drive an hour away to go to Grado or Lignano. If you stay in Trieste, don't say I didn't warn you, and please don't try to school me on what "beach" means because we are in Trieste and the rules are different. Here, what is normally considered a boardwalk by the sea is called a spiaggia or, in Triestino, il bagno.

Because I love you and want you to fit in, here is a trigger warning:

Do not get the Triestini started on the debate about Concrete vs. Sand because it is a battle no foreigner can win. Here are the arguments in advance.

Sand: Bad
1. Not hygienic.
2. Gets in your swimsuit and itches.
3. Prevents water from being transparent.

Cement: Good
1. Fits more people. (Carry your portable chaise-longue or brandin by your feet on your scooter)
2. Does not get in your swimsuit and/or itch.
3. Allows water to be transparent so you can see the prickly sea urchines (also an indicator of clean water) before you step on them (Don't. Trust me on this.).
4.  Provides a flat surface for your card table so you can play gnagno (which is Triestine UNO) or other card games with your deck of Triestin cards (listen up, over 75 crowd, and get there early!).

If Barcola area is your preferred beach destination, for a chance at parking, try transition times like 5am (especially if you are bringing your card table and four folding chairs), lunch time and after work.

Different areas at Barcola
        Topolini: Built by the Americans after the war, they are tiled areas where teens hang out.   
         Pineta: This part has a little pebble beach, so lots of families with small children. The wooded  area has shade, another draw for families. Don't hang up a hammock here between two trees and try to catch a nap. You could get a 300 euro fine. 

There are a few kiosk bars and you are walking distance from two pizzerias and several restaurants and an ice cream place, too.

If you are feeling athletic and want to get away from the crowds, go a little further down the road towards Sistiana with your car.

Filtri is good if you are feeling adventurous and don't mind walking. Park and take a hike down to the water and back up: more work means less people.

There are a couple options in downtown Trieste.

Pedocin: It is near the port and the Aquamarina swimming pool. You pay one euro to enter here and it is divided by gender. The women's area is crowded. The mens' part is not.
Ausonia: Also downtown, you pay to enter but have summer entertainment as well and even yoga at sunset and that type of thing.

From here, you can go to Muggia, and look for the perfect solution along the coast. There is a doggy beach near the Lido hotel, by the way.

Molo T is a nice place for kids to spash around. There is a pebble beach and also a pier for diving and clanfe.

Most beach areas in Trieste and Muggia have a bar outside but feel free to bring your own snacks.

Enjoy your summer!!
 

Anyone up for some Gnagno?

Looking for the gift for those kids who have everything? How about a pack of Triestine playing cards and a quick lesson in "Gnagno." Basically, it's the same as UNO but with skinnier cards and funkier suits.

What?!?

You Never knew the Triestini had playing cards of their very own? Ever heard of the game Scopa?

Whaaaaaaa?!

Well, here you are, my friends. YOU ARE WELCOME! 

We are going to the States this week and guess what we are bringing. Yep, two packs of cards (and some Olive Oil and some trinkets).

In Trieste, quality time with family means playing cards. 

You can buy them in most Tabacchino shops (look for the stores with a big T sign outside). It's what the kids here play when they are skipping school. It's what the senior citizens most love and fight about with their friends.

Having a deck of cards can be a good way to make friends and/or enemies. Either way it's a good way to pass the time.

If cards aren't your thing, don't worry, your new Triestine pals will entice  you into a nice game of Tombola (Bingo basically) after Christmas supper, which is also a great way to practice your numbers in Italian.

The Opposite of Happiness is Boredom

The opposite of happiness is not sadness as it turns out. According to my new favorite book The 4-Hour Workweek by Tim Ferriss, it's BOREDOM!

Which explains a lot. Like, why I keep procrastinating in getting my work done (WHY THE HELL DID I TAKE ON THIS CONTRACT ANYWAY, DOING THE JOB IS AS EXCITING AS WATCHING PAINT DRY), why I keep putting off what I REALLY need to do to feel better in general (RUNNING AN ULTRA MARATHON, NOT JUST TELLING MYSELF TO GO OUT AND RUN FOR HALF AN HOUR AND THEN FINDING EXCUSES TO STAY HOME ON MY KEISTER).

I AM EFFING BORED BECAUSE I HAVE LOWERED MY STANDARDS AND EXPECTATIONS FOR MYSELF AND THAT IS THE WORST THING IN THE WORLD YOU CAN DO TO YOURSELF.

As a result, what I am SUPPOSED to be doing (as defined by ME) is MEDIOCRE, BORING CRAP that I have NO INTEREST IN DOING.

I AM DESTINED FOR GD GREATNESS (pardon my French)!! I just COMPLETELY FORGOT ABOUT THAT (does that ever happen to you??)

Now, to be fair, I do not believe that everything has to be exciting all of the time, but I have generally lost touch with what I find EXCITING and WORTH MY PRECIOUS TIME. I need to get back to KNOWING what will make me SUPER MEGA PSYCHED to wake up in the morning (although I do not wake up unhappy, I am not JUMPING OUT OF BED the way I could be).

My TO-DO List has nothing to do with what I am DYING to do before I DIE. So I am creating a new list (don't laugh).

I know it is strange, but this revelation (the opposite of Happiness is Boredom) explains my SEA LEVEL EXISTENCE over the last six months: why I fell off my Vegan diet (still vegetarian but HATING IT, want to get Cheese out of my life for good!!) and can't get  motivated to create a lifelong healthy running habit past the next small roadrace. I am running but have gained 25 (not kidding) pounds since Christmas. This has GOT to stop.

So here is what I am going to work on in the SHORT TERM (0-6 MONTHS)

1) Write consistently (blog and other writing) and finish my next book on learning foreign language super fast.
2) Sign up for an Ultra Marathon (50k or more. I may do the Bora run because it is in Trieste). I am not a fast runner, but the spare tire around my middle tells me I am meant for DISTANCE!!
3) Learn Swedish so I can get in touch with my mom's roots (and read IKEA boxes better). For this I will use Duolingo.
4) Sign up for the Stockholm marathon in June and thus kill three birds with one stone (running goal, practice my Swedish, dig up my Pippi Longstocking long lost relatives and hopefully talk my mom into coming along for the ride).
5) Make a plan to become financially independent (I live in Trieste, so I am looking at real estate opportunities) and cover my expenses so I can be free to plan even wackier things that are NOT BORING.
6) Finish my house inside and out so I can rent her out and get paid to go on crazy vacations around the world with my family (wish list: Turkey, India, Japan, Sweden, Middle East, Greece, Brazil, and go back to Belgium, France and Brazil to visit old friends)
7) Find the joy in the jobs I am doing. Everything I do must be AWESOME
8) Get a new bike.

This list should keep me busy and get me motivated again.

My friend Monica used to tell her students that being bored is a reflexive verb in French (Italian, too). That means getting out of it falls entirely within our own control.

I feel like it is my responsibility.
Wish me luck.

Babies in Lipica

I can't get enough of this picture. I even put it on as the background photo on my phone, much to my daughter's dismay as she usually chooses which pictures of HER I should put there. 

This was the area at the Lipica Stud farm where mares and their new foals hung out before being introduced back into the larger group. As you can see, the babies are black and become white when they are adults. For now that little one just has the white socks. 

There was one little baby who lost his mother during childbirth, which broke everyone's heart, of course. They were feeding that one every half hour with a bottle and working on getting him "adopted" by another mare who had lost a baby. In the meantime, that horse got some serious love from the human visitors. 

So sweet. So worth the visit.

I Still Get Surprised Sometimes

I had a great long weekend! We spent Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday hopping on and off a big bus full of people from various Lutheran churches in Racine, Wisconsin. My mother was one of them. The tour guide, Sue, was kind enough to let our family join in the fun (there was space on the bus) for the last leg of their trip, which started in Dubrovnik and ended today in Venice. We rented a small studio apartment in Ljubljana that was a ten-minute walk from where the group was staying and hung out with them as much as we could. It was so fun being an American tourist!! We got to wear little orange receivers around our neck with a little earphone and everything!

We have been to Ljubljana several times, but this time we did the guided tour and went up to the castle. Very nice. The next day, we went on the bus to Lake Bled, where we have also been more than once, but this time we went to the island on the little boat and visited the church.

The next day, we went to Lipica Stud Farm, which is where the famous Lipizzaner horses are from. This is about a ten minute drive from our house but we had never toured the stables before. It was an interesting visit and everyone really enjoyed seeing the horses. I learned so much. Had no idea, for example, that baby Lipizzaners are born black but become white as adults. Also had no idea that they used to be many colors but everyone wanted the rare white Lipizzaner horse because Napoleon made it popular. Now they are 99% white.

The next day, we went to the caves of Skocjanske  . Now, if you have not visited this place, please promise you will do it soon. It's one of the most beautiful places I have ever been, and I am not a big fan of caves. It is incredible. Yesterday we did not go down in the caves (the others did) because it is a big hike and the elevator that pulls you back up was out of order, so we decided Grandma Mag could do it next time she visits Trieste. Instead, we sat outside and had a nice lunch and did some gabbing.

One of the interesting things about the Skocjanaske caves is it is where the Timavo river disappears underground and doesn't resurface until Duino 43.6 kilometers later. Talk about coincidence. After we left the Americans and went home, we got ready for work the next day. My school was going on an all-school field trip. I didn't really pay attention to where we were going (I wasn't driving, after all) so imagine my surprise when the FIRST STOP was Duino, where the Timavo comes out. Now, again, I had seen this area before, but what I had NEVER NOTICED was the very cute church that is right there!  The most surprising part is that INSIDE the church, there is a garden.

Have you ever heard of a church with an indoor garden? Some people say they get sick of visiting Europe because it's all the same. Churches churches, villages, villages, churches, blah blah blah. I never feel this way, however. I find it so incredible that even after fifteen years of living here, there are still things I haven't seen and it is still a joy to discover them.

The Wild Asparagus Eye

Spring has sprung, friends. You know what that means, Doncha?

Wild asparagus hunting, you say?

Right on! Well done, you are now a Triestino.

"The conditions were just right this year," they say at the water cooler  coffee machine at the office. "Rain rain rain, sun sun sun! Just wait 'til this weekend! We are going to canvas the Carso!!"

There is a secret language and word-of-mouth-only culture surrounding wild asparagus that only the locals speak. It involves things like "recognising the right bush" and "getting there before anyone else" and having "the eye" for wild asparagus.

Monday morning break-time (which is actually the first half hour of work, between 9:00 and 9:30am) usually involves fisherman-type boasts about how "big the bunch" was from the weekend, and new secret spots discovered.

Now, I do not speak this language, and I definitely do not have THE EYE. But. I can tell you that my family went this weekend (I had to work and they decided to have fun without me) with some experts (Little Sweetie's classmates and their parents). They came home with a nice bouquet of wild asparagus (which is thin thin thin, by the way, and can be mixed up with just about any other weed in the Carso if you ask me) and a handful of ticks burrowed sweetly under Sweetie's skin (belly button, butt, shoulder-blade), but no pain no gain when it comes to Asparagus Hunting. These are small inconveniences compared to the delight of a nice frittata with wild asparagus and a spritz bianco at the end of the Asparagus Expedition...

But, can I just say something? My advice to you. The Asparagus is delicious, but the hunting seems like a lot of work. Do like I do: skip the hunting and cultivate your friendships. Asparagus Hunters are wonderful and generous people. If you are nice to them maybe they will share with you. The asparagus, I mean. For the secret locations, good luck!

Signing up for the Trofeo

I did something courageous last week. I signed up for the Trofeo di Trieste, which is a series of nine trail races around town and up in the carso. I have Always wanted to do it but felt like I needed to be in better shape to compete. I wanted to be thinner and faster and then knock everyone's socks off at race one.

Surprise suprirse...Never happened. The years continue to tick by and I just get fluffier and slower. So I decided to just sign up. I reasoned I could use the races to shame me into getting fit.

The first race was on Sunday in Basovizza. It was a 12k with about 8k of the most boring and straight trail you can imagine, not even one curve. BOOOOOOORING! The rest was a little more exciting even if there was a hill in there that kicked me in the pants pretty good.

I brought up the back pretty well, I must say. At some point I was running neck and neck with a friend of mine who has survived a stroke (hats off!!), and behind people who were about 30 years my senior. I decided to embrace the fact that I am out of shape, but I am running anyway (How do you get back into shape if you don't?).

I also had plenty of time to recognize and reflect on how many people in Trieste run these races year after year and never miss even one. There are some seriously ANCIENT runners in Trieste, and many, actually, MOST of them are kicking my ass.

Let's hope that I get my consistency on, too, and start kicking ass again, too. In the meantime, I feel very proud.

By the way, if you are interested in getting into the running life in Trieste, I highly recommend it. I have mentioned it before, but Triestini make friends through hobbies, not work. It's a great way to practice your Italian and meet new people. Italians love to run in groups, so if that is your gig, you can Always get into one of the groups that meets in Basovizza on Saturday mornings, for example, or Barcola during the week. I found they are open to new people, too. To run in the races you do have to have a medical exam and fill out specific forms, but it's Worth it.

If you are not into running, try a new sport, there are tons of groups that are willing to take you under their wing!

Lunch and "Due Passi in Yugo"

The weekend has passed and no doubt if you are lucky enough to live in Trieste, you probably went out for lunch on Sunday in Slovenia and then out for do Passi afterwards.

It is a curious tradition that the Triestini preserve. It goes back to times before the fall of the Iron Curtain, which is evident in the language used to describe the phenomenon.

The invitation (in Trestino) sounds something like this:

A: Femo qualcossa in weekend per star assieme?

B: Volentieri. Demo fora maniar qualcossa in Yugo?

A: Va ben. Poi femo do passi.

Eating out "in Yugo" as in: the country formerly known as Yugoslavia, with friends and/or family on the weekend is going to involve some negotiation to 1) choose the right restaurant and 2) decide which border between Italy and Slovenia to meet at to be close to the destination. You will caravan together on the big day.

Choice of location is based on two things: 1) the ratio of price to quality and 2) how popular it is with Triestini. There is a direct correlation between the two. A gostilna has the best quality/price ratio as long as it is somewhat new and caters to the Italian palate yet remains unknown to the mainstream. Once too many Triestini start going (popularity is based on word of mouth), prices go up and portions go down. The trick is to get there "in time" before this happens. Curiously, once the place becomes truly popular, the Triestini no longer go there. They will have found a new place by then. Popular restaurants in Slovenia are much like free illegal parking places where you don't get ticketed in downtown Trieste, they change once too many people know about them. When the Triestini no longer go, the restaurants start to do really well. The "foreigners" keep them alive. First the people from the Veneto start coming (thanks to Tripadvisor), then the Milanesi, and finally the Germans as they pass through on their way to Croatia in the summer.

The "do passi" after lunch should not be confused with an actual healthy hike. It is short and sweet, just enough to say you went for a walk, especially since lunches in Slovenia tend to be a good excuse to stuff oneself with all forms of heavy comfort food. Actually, the smart Triestini meet 10 minutes earlier than usual for their walk so they can "earn" the gnocchi with goulash and follow it with a Lubljanska and a couple of homemade beers without feeling guilty.

If you haven't been privy to this practice and would like to start, feel free to adapt the above dialogue to fit your needs. Here is some more insight into the vocabulary you will use most often. Remember, when in Trieste, speak like the Triestini!

1. Stare assieme: Hang out and be together
2. Magnar tanto pagar poco= Poca spesa tanta resa: Cheap place with big portions/more bang for your buck
3. Far do passi= go for a walk (literally make two steps)
4. Volentieri: Gladly (in the dialogue above). Can also mean: would love to give you what you are asking for but we don't have it. Bad news if you are at a store...

Dober tek!

Cooking with Fire

I guess it's the viking in me but ever since I moved into our new house, I can't get enough of making fires and cooking in them!

Some things go directly on the burning embers of the fire (and you don't have to wait for summer!):

Roasted Red, Yellow, and Green Peppers 
15 minutes total, flip halfway, throw them into a plastic bag for 10 minutes, then take the skin off and put them in Olive Oil, Garlic and Parsely and serve. Yummers!

Eggplant 
30 minutes total, flip halfway. When it's black and mushy, take it out and let it sit in tin foil for 10 minutes, then cut it open lengthwise and scoop it out. Take the innerds and mix with mayo and you've got a nice spread for crackers or a dip for raw veggies or chips. You can also find a recipe for baba ganouche (tahini, lemon juice, water, etc).

Leeks
Roughly 15 minutes or until charred. Slice lengthwise and scoop out the insides. You can do lots of fun things. Mix with cream cheese for a yummy dip, throw in a pot with water and make a yummy soup (add potatoes for a thicker consistency).

I go nuts for the smokey flavor you get from cooking right on the fire. You can also do the campfire thing and put your veggies with a little salt and pepper and olive oil in tin foil and throw them on the fire, too.

For more info, just google the above. I am no expert, so have fun experimenting and check with the real chefs on Google for the rest...

Yum yum yum!

The Triestine Treasure Hunt Challenge

Looking for something to do today? How about a good old-fashioned Treasure Hunt Tour of Trieste? The first person to complete all tasks wins a delicious Spritz Bianco (with ice and lemon) courtesy of Life in Trieste.

Good luck, and NO CHEATING!

1. The Giant Mortadella (Don't call it Baloney, but that's what it really is) at Da Giovanni's in Via San Lazaro. Have you seen it? Enormous. Troubling.

Your task:
Eat a full slice. Wash it down with a Spritz Bianco.  Take a selfie for proof.

2. The covered market in Largo Barriera.

Your task:
Buy some "Ravanei." Just keep asking until you find a stand that has them. You get extra credit if you pull this one off at the Mercato all'ingrosso.

3. The blue lights in Piazza Unità that signal where the water used to be before they filled it all in.

Your task:
Get a picture of the Piazza "By Night". Explain to me in two paragraphs or less what the hell they were thinking when they planned that.

4. The Card Catalogue at the Italian American Association (Piazza Sant'Antonio, 6).

Your task:
Take a picture of a check out card for a book that was checked out at least five times.


5. The American flag on the painting in the Comune room where the voting happens.

Your task:
Get a selfie with it.

Three Sagras in One Weekend

Sagra della Sardella -- Trieste

Saturday night we went to the Sagra della Sardella to see Lorenzo Pilat do his last gig of the summer. If you haven't seen him yet, try to catch him while you can. Everyone knows that Triestini have a pact with the devil as far as longevity, but Pilat is 79 and still playing his one-man show and singing everyone's favorites: Tram d'Opcina, Finanziere, etc. I don't know how long he can keep it up...

The Sagra della Sardella has changed locations over the years. It started out having something to do with actual water (Sardella is a fish after all) but it didn't last on the Rive for long. When I went for the first time a few years ago it was already in the outskirts of town at Campanelle. Now it is held on the Horse track (Ippodromo), which is an odd place for a Sagra, but it's not a bad location after all. There is lots of space and parking is easier. The food is good and the prices are fair. The wine isn't great, but you get what you pay for.

Festa del Pescatore -- Santa Croce

It was a lazy Sunday and we weren't sure what to do after lunch. In the end we went to Santa Croce to a mini-sagra celebrating its fishing heritage. Santa Croce was the only fishing village in the Carso (it looks down over the Filtri, if you like to go to the beach in the less crowded areas). They had activities for kids and a tug of war competition between folks from the inland part of the village and those looking over the sea. I am not sure who won because I was back in the giardinetto eating and drinking. There was a nice selection of fried seafood and a surprising plate with a grilled tuna steak, boiled potatoes and veggies. I found a veggie option: Capuzzi and Fasoi (my favorite). They also had fried zucchini and eggplant. The food was yummy and not too expensive and the wine was local.

Sagra di Prosecco -- Prosecco

On the way home we stopped at the Sagra in Prosecco where some of the guys working on my house were camping out and working from Friday- Sunday night slinging Civapcici by day and partying by night. I wasn't sure what they had to do with Prosecco because normally the people who live in the village that is holding the Sagra organize the weekend of events with proceeds going to their cultural association. Churches also hold Sagras.

This sagra was different, however. When we got there we saw that it was organized by the TLT or the Triestine Independence Movement.  So there was lots of talk of the good old days when it was the Free Territory of Trieste. The food was typical Sagra food: Meat and french fries, Palacinke (crepes), and beer and wine.

The highlight of the Prosecco sagra was music in Triestine and a set by DJ Zippo, who basically holds a sagra-wide aerobics class. Everyone gets into it and does the synchronised dances of the summer. Super fun.

Delfino Verde - Take the Boat to the Beach from Downtown

If you're looking for a cheap thrill before real life starts again in September, especially for kids, the Delfino Verde is a good option. It's run by a private company but has contracts with Trieste Trasporti, the local bus company, and APT, the bus company that takes you further afield (like to the Airport).

The Delfino has three lines departing from Molo dei Bersaglieri in downtown Trieste.

1. Muggia (Trieste Trasporti)
2. Barcola/Grignano/Sistiana (Trieste Trasporti)
3. Grado  (APT)

This summer I decided to get a 10-ride pass so that Eva and I could have five trips to Muggia, which is a great place for a walk and some ice cream, or to go swimming and lay on the beach (we walk about 10 minutes and choose a different place each time. Some beaches are free and others you pay for but have more services (like bathrooms and restaurants). While the view from the Muggia side is not as pretty as Barcola or other beaches on the Trieste side, kids love boat rides and a trip to Muggia is easy peasy. The historic center is also quite cute and feels like mini Venice. I don't have a car, and the busses to Barcola are always super packed in the summer, as are the beaches in that direction, so Muggia worked out for us this year.

The down side is that kids pay (on the city bus kids are free up to age 10, at least in 2017) and if you want to ride together you have to have two tickets. This means I had to buy two ten-trip passes, which cost 13.50*2. I thought that was dumb, but, then again, I just couldn't get myself to pay 7.90 each for one round trip. We have only gone twice so far, but that's okay. The Muggia line runs all year, so we will eventually get those rides in.

Another cheap option is to take the Delfino Verde in one direction and then take the city bus back. We did that both times (I have a yearly bus pass and Eva rides free). Bus 20 leaves from the Bus station in Muggia and takes you all the way downtown to the station in Trieste. Eva got her boating fix two days in a row and we still have 8 more chances to go.

As an aside, and because I am talking about Bus lines this week, Bus 20 also stops at the Free Time shopping mall and that is the one that has Decathlon, for cheap sporting goods. Just so you know. Keep Bus 20 in mind when Carneval time comes again. Muggia does Carneval in spectacular fashion and who wants to drive anyway?

Meet the 25 and the 41- Our Featured Busses of the Day!

Those of us who rely on our feet and Trieste Trasporti know the city as well as any pizza delivery person but we would be terrible pizza delivery people because it would take us forever to get your pizza to you, even if we can see the exact bus stop in our mind's eye.

That being said, in spite of 14 odd years of bus travel, I am still adding new bus lines to my reportoire.

Today I would like to talk to you about my two new faves, the 25 bus and the 41.

This is where you can get information on the different busses. The site is not translated into English (whaaa?) so this is the most exact page with the areas the different numbers go. If you click on the blue writing, you will get the bus schedule for that particular line.

The 25. Comes frequently.

This one goes from Piazza della Borsa to Cattinara hospital and back. It is an interesting bus because it doesn't start from the Station like most of the busses in Trieste, so it allows you to get closer to places like Piazza Unità without that extra 10-minute schlep. I am currently using it to avoid walking up a monstrous hill that takes me to Chiadino, where I am staying until my house is done getting did. Chiadino has really breathtaking views of Trieste and... that's about it. There are some super villas and mega beautiful places that feel like they are in the middle of the country even though you are about a 15 minute walk from the city (going down) and a quick bus ride up (take the 25 at the Portici, which is the corner of Via Battisti and Via Carducci, if you want). The 25 also takes you up Via Marchesetti if you want a faster trip down from MIB to the city or if your kid goes to school near Cattinara.

The 41. Comes almost never. 

This bus defies gravity. It starts at the Station and takes you as far as Bagnoli (Val Rosandra), which is arguably the prettiest part of town if you don't like towns. The first puzzle is why the bus is so small, until you realize how few people are crazy enough to live where it goes and/or not have a car if they do. Especially fun is the near vertical SALITA that starts at Domio and takes you up to Log and San Giuseppe and continues up to Moccò etc. You will have new respect for Triestine bus drivers as they stare death in the face at least 5 times on that stretch of what SHOULD be a one-way street.

Hope this helps! Happy Bus Riding!

How to Have a Vegan Over for Dinner

Tired of your busy social life and want a break from all of those dinner invitations? I have two solutions.

1. Have a kid.
2. Tell your friends and family you are following a Vegan diet.

I know what I am talking about. Believe me!

Number 1 makes you temporarily Untouchable until your friends either embrace the Lunch thing or you find other people with kids to hang out with. Don't fret: that will happen at three years old when little Sweetie goes to scuola materna. 

Number 2 is more difficult to navigate. At first I thought this was only the case for self-righteous pains in the arses who are judgy and annoying. But, actually, it turns out to be the case even for those of us who are perfectly charming, easy-to-please, non-judgemental, wonderful people!

When I was just merely vegetarian, see, people treated me with fascination and slight pity. What do I eat if I don't eat meat? How do I get my protein (news flash, a POTATO has enough protein for a day, people, and it is not particularly protein rich, just saying.)? Wouldn't I just die for a nice steak? (No. A can of tuna, yes). It must be so complicated not eating meat, but at least you have fish. No fish either? Wow. Can't imagine that. Well, I am cutting down, too. Hardly eat red meat anymore. Mostly chicken, cold cuts, that sort of thing... To the meat eaters I didn't pose much of a threat, especially since my not partaking left more tartara for them...

My mother-in-law still has a hard time with the concept. She asked me nearly every week for six years if I was Still a Vegetarian. For her, my diet choices were problematic. She felt it was her responsability to offer another option and sometimes that pressure was overwhelming. Until I pointed out that I could just eat everything except the meat. Her solution was to provide large quantities of Cheeses and egg products to make up for the lack of meat. To her that made sense.

Then I cut out dairy and eggs.

That was when MY life got better, but those around me got WORSE.

Oh, being a Veggie wasn't bad enough?! What did we do to deserve THIS?!? (Did I tell you Triestini have a tendency to take things personally?)

Let me offer two solutions from the Vegan perspective. We are not as different as you think.

On my plate, the Starch is the star. I do not care about carbohydrate issues. I eat as many of them as I want, and at any time of day (nyah nyah nyah nyah nyah!)

Just put POTATOES, BEANS, LENTILS, RICE, OR PASTA in the area where YOU would normally put a hunk of meat.

For everything else, you and me, we are cool. I eat the veggies and the salad just like you do.

See? It's not so hard.

I am even happy to bring a dish to pass so you can try something yummy and new, too. Just ask!

Ok? Are we clear? Can we have supper together sometime again? Because I miss our little talks. And Red Wine is vegan, my friend. Another thing we have in common!

Planning a Family Reunion

My family lives in about 7 states total. We, like many other American families, do not see each other very often. Every few years, however, we make a plan to come together and party like nobody's business. Normally the meeting place is near the home of one of the ELDERS. My mom's house, or my Aunt and Uncle's place. Makes sense-- the Boomers have space and money, the salt and pepper of a good party. This year we changed the rules. Well, actually, it was about 3 years ago, which was when we started to plan our European reunion in Trieste for this summer in June. In the end there were about 23 of us in Trieste, we worked it all out, and we had an awesome time. Since a couple of people have asked how we managed to do it, here are some guidelines in case you would like to do something similar.

1. Start planning 3 years in advance. This gives everyone time to save up, get off work, get a passport or renew their old one, and mentally prepare.

2. Plan for 3 days with one BIG party on one of them. We make our Big Party on Fathers' Day because in the US it always falls on a Sunday in June. That is the day that all guests MUST be in town. This gives people wiggle room to make their plans and get a good deal on plane tickets.

3. Unless you live in a place like Rome, Venice, or Florence, don't count on everyone wanting to stay in your town just because you live there. Some members of my family got their tourism out of the way before coming to Trieste, others started here and went off to other places they hadn't seen yet after recovering from our party. Trieste is a great home base for trips to Venice, Rome, Slovenia, etc. Ryan air flies out of Trieste and Treviso, too. Easy jet flies out of Venice.

4. Lodging. Help your guests by giving them different options as to where to stay. Hotels always have airconditioning, which Americans appreciate when it is hot as a mofo in Trieste. I had people sleeping at friends' places, my house, in a residence (hotel where they clean once a week) and at a hotel. Everyone was happy. You provide the resources, they make their own plans. I think that works best. Put people close to busses so they can be self-sufficient. Everyone stayed downtown, so that made transportation easy, too.

5. Activities: We planned a series of things to do that people could opt to participate in... or not. We made everything we could Kid Friendly. 

Guided walking Tour of Trieste
Family Italian language class
Treasure hunt at the farmers' market
Cooking class
Dinner made by family with chef Federico
The Big Party

6. Transportation. Trieste is largely a walking city and my people stayed downtown. Those who did not were within feet of a city bus stop. There are also taxis and my family used those too. When we went up to the Carso to our party, we rented a bus to take 20 people and the other handful went in cars. If you want to rent a bus, try just over the border in Slovenia,  and there are places in Trieste, too. Be careful, though, weekends are much harder to plan in the summer because of all of the other little day trips people organize. The train is always a good idea and kids love them. They key is putting people in a position to be autonomous.

7. The Party. Finding the appropriate venue is not easy in Europe, especially if your group is big. We opted to go up to carso and have our party at a wine-producer that also has the Best Osmizza in the world. We worked out a price per person ahead-of-time and a menu. They gave us a great deal. My family drank A LOT of wine, so we threw more money in over the course of the evening.

Final thoughts.

8. You never know who is going to come. We had some last minute confirmations, and other people didn't come who we thought for sure would. No biggy. Do not take these things personally. Love the ones you're with.

9. Let your guests be part of the plan. You can give them information and guide them, but, ultimately, the success of the shabang is up to everyone, and that takes the pressure off.

10. Don't forget the family portrait. They are dippy as hell, but you just HAVE to. Our uniform this year was the Italy soccer shirt. I found them on sale at Lidl for cheap cheap cheap and bought one for each person, including the Italian components taking part in our reunion. They made for an awesome picture and a rocking souvenir!

11. Create a closed Facebook page of your event. This helps people get psyched up and becomes an online journal of everyone's trip. Afterwards people share their photos and videos here. I still go back to ours and look at it sometimes and remember how much fun we had.

12. Other Communication. Important info should be shared on Facebook and email for those who don't DO Facebook, especially in the time leading up to the reunion. In Trieste you don't always have wifi, so your family should know that you can also make meeting times and places just like in the olden days. Europeans use Whatsapp much more than imessage, by the way. Some of the family members NEVER communicated directly, but that was okay because there is usually a spokesperson in each family that just naturally speaks on behalf of the others.

13. Home Base. We used the Italian American Association as a home base, since it is centrally located, there is wi-fi, a bar downstairs, and I was often there.

Conclusion: Keep your plans flexible, give people options, make sure there is plenty of wine, and you can't go wrong when you are planning your next reunion!

HAVE FUN!

Put on Your Dancing Shoes

I always wondered where people dance once they have taken all of those lessons. Now I know: the SAGRA. This is the sort of outside party that the villages around Trieste take turns having to raise money for cultural events in their paese. You can go for dinner and have grilled civapcici or chicken or ribs and french fries and there is usually a great quantity of beer and wine to be had.

There is also live music and dancing. The music ranges from folky Triestine to 80s pop. The band will have at least one accordion. The senior population will ROCK OUT in front of you-- slow rocking-- but rocking all the same.

A Triestine favorite is the Line Dance. It is always the same one. It's like the Hustle with less soul. Let's say it's more like country line dancing. If you join the line, great. Try to get in the middle of the crowd so you don't end up in the front line when the group turns. They can do this one for hours and it seems to defy genre.

Watching everyone the other day, and seeing a group of small kids out on the dance floor, it reminded me of an American wedding, maybe the only time where everyone dances and nobody cares (Thank you, Booze!). And then I thought. Dang, if you know how to dance (just having the courage to try will suffice), you can always have a good time.

Where to Go Play

There are  a lot of parks in Trieste. Some, however, are little ghost parks and remain empty most of the time. These do not give much satisfaction to the little ones. For the ultimate play experience, you want a good mix of other kids, but not TOO many other kids. You want to be able to go up the slide once in a while (when your mom isn't looking) and not have to wait too long for a swing.

Here are my top picks for free play this summer.

1. BARCOLA. There is something here for all ages, including big muscle people who go there for a free workout. Who cares if you have kids or not! You can get an eyeful of these folks working their triceps on the monkey bars in the twilight hours. For your little sweeties, they will move out of the way. If you park your towels near the big fountain with the statue of a swimming woman, you will find the first of several playgrounds to your right (if your back is to the water).

2. BORGO SAN SERGIO. Over by the excellent library with a great kids' section there is a wonderful park with extra long slides. Highly recommended. No problem parking. Besides books, the library has movies and music cds. Awesome.

3. GIARDINO PUBBLICO. They say that it is not quite up to its glory days, but it's a classic. The first time I went here I LOVED watching all the kids playing together in all the different languages you hear around this place in the summer.

4. VILLA REVOLTELLA. The only bummer about this place is you can't bring your dog. Come to think of it, dogs are not welcome at most parks in Trieste. Anyway, if your kid doesn't freak out at the statue of Pinocchio becoming a donkey, you will have a lovely time. I like the jungle gym, but it also has a closed-off area where kids can kick a ball around or get used to in-line skates.

There are probably other good ones, too. If you know of any, by all means, share in the comment section below!

My Favorite Place in Trieste

If you haven't visited the American Corner library at the Italian-American Association in Piazza Sant'Antonio, 6, you should.

The library at the Italian-American Association has long been my favorite place in Trieste. It is a place where you can hang out and read, and it is physically beautiful. Books have a way of warming up a room, and with its high ceilings and parquet floors, they don't make libraries like this anymore.

If you are looking for things to do in Trieste or interested in volunteering, you should absolutely stop by.

Check the Blog for info on what's happening this week. aia-fvg.blogspot.com