Sunday, July 21, 2019

Finding the Right Bagno For You

It's summer here in Trieste and you know what that means: going to the "bagno." You're thinking: I do that every day several times, but in Trieste andare al bagno means to go to the beach. It's all in the preposition.

First, remember that in Trieste beach has nothing to do with sand. If you are into sand, you will have to drive an hour away to go to Grado or Lignano. If you stay in Trieste, don't say I didn't warn you, and please don't try to school me on what "beach" means because we are in Trieste and the rules are different. Here, what is normally considered a boardwalk by the sea is called a spiaggia or, in Triestino, il bagno.

Because I love you and want you to fit in, here is a trigger warning:

Do not get the Triestini started on the debate about Concrete vs. Sand because it is a battle no foreigner can win. Here are the arguments in advance.

Sand: Bad
1. Not hygienic.
2. Gets in your swimsuit and itches.
3. Prevents water from being transparent.

Cement: Good
1. Fits more people. (Carry your portable chaise-longue or brandin by your feet on your scooter)
2. Does not get in your swimsuit and/or itch.
3. Allows water to be transparent so you can see the prickly sea urchines (also an indicator of clean water) before you step on them (Don't. Trust me on this.).
4.  Provides a flat surface for your card table so you can play gnagno (which is Triestine UNO) or other card games with your deck of Triestin cards (listen up, over 75 crowd, and get there early!).

If Barcola area is your preferred beach destination, for a chance at parking, try transition times like 5am (especially if you are bringing your card table and four folding chairs), lunch time and after work.

Different areas at Barcola
        Topolini: Built by the Americans after the war, they are tiled areas where teens hang out.   
         Pineta: This part has a little pebble beach, so lots of families with small children. The wooded  area has shade, another draw for families. Don't hang up a hammock here between two trees and try to catch a nap. You could get a 300 euro fine. 

There are a few kiosk bars and you are walking distance from two pizzerias and several restaurants and an ice cream place, too.

If you are feeling athletic and want to get away from the crowds, go a little further down the road towards Sistiana with your car.

Filtri is good if you are feeling adventurous and don't mind walking. Park and take a hike down to the water and back up: more work means less people.

There are a couple options in downtown Trieste.

Pedocin: It is near the port and the Aquamarina swimming pool. You pay one euro to enter here and it is divided by gender. The women's area is crowded. The mens' part is not.
Ausonia: Also downtown, you pay to enter but have summer entertainment as well and even yoga at sunset and that type of thing.

From here, you can go to Muggia, and look for the perfect solution along the coast. There is a doggy beach near the Lido hotel, by the way.

Molo T is a nice place for kids to spash around. There is a pebble beach and also a pier for diving and clanfe.

Most beach areas in Trieste and Muggia have a bar outside but feel free to bring your own snacks.

Enjoy your summer!!