Friday, July 7, 2023

Hello Summer: It's Time for a Grigliata!

It is summer, which means there are changes in Trieste. A new bus schedule shifts public transportation away from school and towards the beach. Nonna stops making Jota and starts making pesto and, as soon as the price for San Marzano tomatoes comes down at the mercato coperto, she will put the camping stove outside and make enough salsa to last the winter. Likewise, you may notice that your social calendar has changed. For if winter in Trieste means pizzas out with friends, the summer is all about the grigliata

Something for Everyone

Study the roles closely and see where you can make the best of your talents at the next grigliata!

The Organizer: This person may or may not be the host. The most pro-active of the grigliata roles, it carries two main responsibilities: 

1. Create the whatsapp group announcing the event. Find an appropriate profile photo for the group. This might be an image of an ice-cold beer, glasses clinking, a picture of a grill, or any image that communicates “it’s party time.” 

2. Circulate the List of What to Bring. Only two columns are necessary: Nome and Salato or Dolce.

Grill Maestra/Maestro:  This person throws beers in the fridge and fires up the grill. Later, she (or he, why not?) will confer with other Grill Heads about proper strategy. 

Grill Head: Anyone who stands at or near the grill for more than 5 minutes. This includes the person with a fork ready to eat cevapcici directly off the grill.

By the way, the definition of “Grill” in Italy has a wider range than in America. Almost anything can be classified as a grill in Trieste as long as it is outside and you can cook meat on it. 

Spritz Aperol Fairy: As the name implies, this person brings the ingredients for Spritz Aperol (Prosecco, Orange slices, sparkling water, Aperol) and makes carafes of it until the ingredients run out. Spritz Aperol fairies must arrive punctually as this is a before dinner aperitivo.

Torta Salata Specialist: This person brings the same torta salata to every potluck they attend. A torta salata can come pie-shape like a quiche or it may be a rectangular store-bought crust filled down the center, wrapped like a burrito and baked. T.S. Specialists favor tried and true combinations like: spinach and ricotta, potato and tuna, or Ham and cheese.

The Experimenter: This person, usually the foreigner of the group, is not bound by Italian tradition and food combination rules. In the past, this person’s dish went home untouched. Social media and global food trends have changed the tide, however, making the experimenter’s quirky dishes more attractive.  

The Principe: Every good party needs a little prince, or the cherished male child of someone who is good at making insalata russa, which is basically a fancy version of potato salad decorated with olives and mayonnaise squeezed out of a tube. If the principe has a very loving mother, she will throw in a batch of peperonata and a strucolo de pomi for dessert.

There are many other roles to cover depending on how many people are invited to the grigliata. I mention only the main ones.

A Word about Location

Possible places for the grigliata include, for the lucky ones, the back yard or, even better, the terreno, someone’s piece of land they rent for the year or own specifically for social occasions. A corner of the terreno is reserved for a vegetable garden with radicio picio, tomatoes, and way more zucchini than necessary.

Other grigliata locations include the cemented cortile, the terrazza, or even the roof.

What Goes on the Grill

While in America there are generally two choices: Hamburger or Hot Dog, the Italian grill can hold an unlimited number of meat makes and models -- the bigger the variety the better. Just remember, the Grill Heads will be able to tell if the meat has been frozen and thawed. With this in mind, it is highly recommended to go over the border on the same day and buy fresh. Don't worry about it, though. As a foreigner, no one expects you to know much about food anyway. Let someone else do the errand and contribute to the spesa.  Also, vegetables can and will be grilled. 

The Conversation

Don’t be surprised if the main topic of conversation is the food itself.  Asking for and giving recipes, commenting on various dishes and how you would have made them better differently, where in Slovenia the meat came from and, most importantly, a grigliata is not a grigliata unless someone takes a moment to complain about the fact that there is WAY TOO MUCH FOOD.

Yes, next time we will do better.    

Friday, June 23, 2023

Happy Birthday and Anniversary to Me in Dublin

On June 17, 2023  I celebrated 20 years of living in Italy. It was also my 50th birthday.  I didn't spend it in Italy, though. Instead I had the brilliant idea, which is not sarcasm because it was literally brilliant, to buy concert tickets to see Depeche Mode in Dublin on June 14 and invite my twin brother to meet me there. It took him a while to get back to me so I spread the word a bit and by the time June came along I had convinced my husband and daughter (that was easy), my Bestie from college who lives in Geneva (easier than I thought, I'll have to do that more often), as well as my sister and, finally, my twin brother (they traveled together) to come. The Cherry on top was getting to see my friends who live in Dublin, too. 

My husband, who is the default Cruise Director at our house, thought I should make a plan for our time in Dublin. He said it was only right seeing as it was my birthday and my idea. He wanted to teach me a lesson: get a feel for how much work it is, understand first hand all that time and effort, appreciate him for all those past trips he masterfully designed. It was the least I could do, and as a teacher I could not turn down an opportunity to get schooled, so I got to work.  

Like a DJ carefully preparing that winning wedding playlist, I put together a range of activities, balancing culture and personal growth with crowd pleasers, dinners in interesting venues, and Ukulele Tuesday at the Stag's Head pub.  I liked everything. It was amazing. I did not make one plan that I hated doing. I did not complain once during the entire trip, except when I got mad at Google maps, but I had not clearly communicated my expectations. Other than that it was awesome. 

The party was a blast, too, but that was because I didn't have to plan it. My bestie chose the place, made the reservation, ordered a cake for us plus the entire pub plus breakfast for the next two days. It was marvelous. Maybe not everyone had the time of their life, but, now that I am fifty, I know that each person creates their own happiness, and it is not my problem if they do not. 

In case you're curious, here were the best things about my trip besides being with humans I love. These are in no particular order. 

1) Staying in an apartment in Temple Bar. 

2) A day trip to Belfast. (Giant's causeway, dark hedges, Titanic museum). 

3)  Depeche Mode Concert at Malahide Castle, After-party at Crowbar in Temple Bar. Plus there was a raffle and I won a DM Flask!

4) Dinner at a converted bank. 

5) Lunch at a converted Church. 

6) Lunch at Gravedigger's Pub.

7) National Portrait Gallery.

8) Windmill Recording Studios tour.

9) Ukulele Tuesday at the Stag's Head.

10) Wandering aimlessly and finding live music everywhere. 

There are cheap direct flights to Dublin with Ryan air from Trieste or Venice. As far as prices in Dublin, food and drinks are comparable to what you would pay in Trieste, but hotels and apartments are roughly double. With that in mind, I recommend a visit even if it's for a long weekend.  Just go. I'll meet you there.