Friday, April 27, 2018

How Advertising Has Changed in Fifteen Years: Less Boobs on Display


Ignore the Boobs on that Billboard!!

One day I was on the bus and I counted how many times I saw a semi-nude woman advertising something from my house to central station. There were 17 different women in all, and that is not counting when the same woman was repeated (street advertising here is often posters glued next to each other like pixels on a much bigger billboard-sized advertising space). This was a fifteen-minute ride including all stops and just two major streets. A little mind-blowing perhaps? Not so much if you lived here fifteen years ago, which was when I carried out this experiment.

Actually, there was something therapeutic about this exercise. It was the first time since I had arrived that I was able to look at these women without getting pissed off or taking it personally. I was able to see the women on the posters as objects. And isn’t that the point of this kind of advertising? I had officially become the Male Viewer.

At about the same time, my husband and I took a ride to Udine and I was surprised to see a billboard with two naked boobies on it (and that’s all) with some writing underneath. As I got closer, I noticed it was a mattress company.

“What the hell do boobs have to do with mattresses?” I ask him, curious to understand the machinations of the Italian male thinking process.

He wrinkles up his brow in a way that made it clear he was not used to making connections between female body parts and what they are advertising (which was exactly my point). Then he comes up with a doozy.

“Boobs. Soft pillows! Pillows and mattresses!”

Problem solved. He felt smug and unflustered by the whole thing. I still felt pissed off.

So, two lessons from that first summer living in Italy.

1) Sexism is pervasive, and nobody seems to care.
2) We Americans take a lot of shit personally.

I could elaborate on point one all day, of course, because that’s what I do, but I want to take a moment to talk about point two because it is something I feel we can work on as a people.

Jumping back into the mind of the Italian male (or at least the mind of the one I know best, my husband’s) I can tell you exactly why he was unflustered by the booby campaign. The first, most obvious, reason is point number one above. That is the easy answer that even an international audience can agree on. “Those Italians, so sexist!!” And they wouldn’t be wrong. 

The second reason is a little more subtle and it is this: Boobs are not a big deal here and I mean that for women and men. In Trieste for example, the important thing is the tan line (or not having one) not the boobs. Boobs are considered part of a woman’s body, thrilling to look at, no doubt, but not something to gawk at as there is no pressure here to hide what is perfectly naturally a part of YOU.

To understand this one, let’s do a little role reversal and talk about the warnings that Italians give their friends when they hear they are going to America in the summer.

“Be careful in America when you go to the beach: even little babies must wear a bikini top!! No boobies yet and the Americans are worried about indecent exposure!!”

This is usually followed by the story about the friend of a friend who got a good “speaking to” by “the police” and a warning to “cover up” their little one-- the confusion and shame that ensued.

See, little girls’ swimming suits come in two types here: a classic full one-piece affair that you would use for, say, swimming class, and the other type of one-piece, which is a bikini bottom. There is no top because it is considered strange to put a bra-like contraption on anyone who is pre-pubescent. Looks like you’re trying to dress a child like a woman, and that, if you think about it, is a little strange.

Kids in Italy wear practically the same style of swimming suit until they are teenagers. While the girls have the bikini bottom, boys and men wear what Americans call “Speedos” for going in the water. They are considered “more hygienic,” and faster to dry once you get out. I would add that it is the closest thing to running around in your underwear that you can get, and don’t all dudes love hanging out in their underwear? They may throw on a pair of longer swimming trunks or shorts for hanging out and playing with friends and kicking a ball around in between swims.

Nobody is scandalized or titillated by the presence of a scantily clad person of the opposite sex. The training starts at an early age. Take locker rooms. They are mixed until middle school (the rule is kids go in the changing room of the gender of the parent who is helping out. While with daddy, go in the boys' locker room, while with grandma or mom, go with the women). Kids see each other naked (locker room at pool, for instance, or at the beach in the summer) or in their skivvies all the time. No body shaming. No embarrassment. Even as adults, there are plenty of times when a good swim (which takes precedence over nearly anything else in the world, including Pride) requires changing in the presence of other adults. The Triestini are experts in the art of towel manipulation and have Houdini-like precision when it comes to escaping one type of clothes and throwing on another.

Thus, when in Italy, don’t take it personally. After that bus ride with the naked ladies, I realized that it wasn’t just me. There is a system in place here that I cannot change on my own overnight. Taking systemic misogyny personally was not going to take me very far. Instead, I decided to see those posters in a more neutral way and work on something I can have some influence over. First, my relationship with my own body (a work in progress, I can tell you, even after fifteen years of trying) and… my husband.

It starts here with this little question.

“Don’t you men get tired of being marketed to as if you were cavemen?!”

Now, I can’t take credit for  progress that has been made in the meantime (and there has been some), but I can tell you that fifteen years later advertising has changed. Apparently I am not the only one to desensitize from the in-your-face booby caveman advertising because you just don’t see it so much anymore (in the streets, that is. TV is a completely different beast, so I just don't watch it).
Of course, sexism is alive and well in Italy and will not be going away anytime soon (in case you are a male chauvinist and worried about this), but other things have changed. For one thing, I feel like women (especially women with some work experience, but also young women who are just starting out) are no longer waiting for the contratto a tempo determato to fall in their lap (because it won't). Instead they are opening their own one-person-show businesses, negotiating their salaries and timetables based on their personal needs. 

If women can work on their own terms, they can also shop in places that see them as whole people. Perhaps the advertisers have woken up to this reality.




Tuesday, April 24, 2018

Liberation Day April 25

Tomorrow is April 25, Festa Della Liberazione, as they call it around here. A day for celebrating the fall of Mussolini and the end of Nazi occupation in Italy. Here is a little link that gives you more info. 

On a sadder note, did you know that Trieste was home to the only Nazi Concentration Camp in Italy? It is called the Risiera di San Sabba.  Definitely worth a visit if you have never been there. Surprisingly, a lot of Triestini, especially young people, have never been there.

This week is a good time to learn more about Jewish history in Trieste. Start here.  Then go here and scroll down.

Also make time to visit these museums.

Civico Museo Morpurgo (Via Imbriani, 5)
It's only open on Tuesdays, so plan ahead. 

Jewish Museum Carlo and Vera Wagner (Via del Monte, 5/7)
Explanation here. 



Friday, April 20, 2018

What's for Lunch in America?

Does the subject of conversation always have to come back to food? Sometimes it's my fault. I am often hungry during lessons because I forget to go grocery shopping (more often than I'd like to admit) and therefore don't have any convenient snacks to fill me up. If I did, my brain could move on to other things.

Thankfully, since I am the Teacher, I can steer the conversation in the direction of my desires.

"Kebab or pizza?"

"What kind of pizza?"

"Where do you take a date for a really yummy meal?

"Like, what's the address and is dinner avilable right after this class?"

This time, however, the conversation turned to me.

"What Americans have for lunch?" asks curious studente, catching me off guard.

"Hmmm. What DO Americans have for lunch?" I am buying time.

"No. What YOU have for lunch?" and I realize this is no time to review how to ask questions. There is something bigger happening here.

Do I tell them?!

"Um. Well, in a perfect world... I would have a grilled cheese sandwich (onion, yes!) and a bowl of canned tomato soup." Because that is the truth.

But I don't say it.

See, the canned soup part sounds tacky. It's, like, too American, like America before Whole Foods, before Brie Cheese made it to Wisconsin, before they started putting fresh basil on pizzas (available in participating pizzerias in college towns near you)... It is what Americans  my age still long for (but deny as much as we deny how much we love and miss tunafish in a can), and I am an Ambassador (well, not actually, but I do feel like a small-time representative of the Stars & Stripes, especially since I am expected to explain The Trump Thing and The Gun Thing almost daily and seriously? I don't get it either).

So on some level I feel like I need to present something other than the stereotype (even if I do jones for some tomato soup and a greasy grilled cheese)...

I'm going to come clean here.

The Truth is I had cheese and crackers for lunch.

And that was only because some generous kind of kitchen goddess left the cheese in the fridge at work without a nametag on it and there was an open pack of crackers leftover from some book club meeting on the table and I was starving and I went for them.

Then Denise walks in with a bottle of Regular Coke, which she never drinks, and neither do I except for at kids' birthday parties (which parents are expected to attend) but she's had a long day and I am looking for some easy empty calories to get my oomph back  so we split that baddy and oh! It tasted good!

And now I am back in class and need to find a solution to the age old question but I have no solution. The real problem, of course, is not the food itself. Not at all. It's the randomness of it all. It's how I just leave it all to chance. Nothing is worse to Italians than an Unplanned Lunch. 

Leave your weekend plans, that coveted vacation (in August, the highest of high seasons), your retirement, to the last minute, but Please, Please Plan your Lunches, Friends!

So, I need a plan B.

Or At Least plan a decent answer that doesn't start with "McD," which is what they are really expecting to hear.

Just say SALAD. Better yet, INSALATONA. That is something they can understand and you can save face.

Let's just Never reveal the truth of what we really eat. We are going to have to agree on this one, okay? (wink)

The Wild Asparagus Eye

Spring has sprung, friends. You know what that means, Doncha?

Wild asparagus hunting, you say?

Right on! Well done, you are now a Triestino.

"The conditions were just right this year," they say at the water cooler  coffee machine at the office. "Rain rain rain, sun sun sun! Just wait 'til this weekend! We are going to canvas the Carso!!"

There is a secret language and word-of-mouth-only culture surrounding wild asparagus that only the locals speak. It involves things like "recognising the right bush" and "getting there before anyone else" and having "the eye" for wild asparagus.

Monday morning break-time (which is actually the first half hour of work, between 9:00 and 9:30am) usually involves fisherman-type boasts about how "big the bunch" was from the weekend, and new secret spots discovered.

Now, I do not speak this language, and I definitely do not have THE EYE. But. I can tell you that my family went this weekend (I had to work and they decided to have fun without me) with some experts (Little Sweetie's classmates and their parents). They came home with a nice bouquet of wild asparagus (which is thin thin thin, by the way, and can be mixed up with just about any other weed in the Carso if you ask me) and a handful of ticks burrowed sweetly under Sweetie's skin (belly button, butt, shoulder-blade), but no pain no gain when it comes to Asparagus Hunting. These are small inconveniences compared to the delight of a nice frittata with wild asparagus and a spritz bianco at the end of the Asparagus Expedition...

But, can I just say something? My advice to you. The Asparagus is delicious, but the hunting seems like a lot of work. Do like I do: skip the hunting and cultivate your friendships. Asparagus Hunters are wonderful and generous people. If you are nice to them maybe they will share with you. The asparagus, I mean. For the secret locations, good luck!

Thursday, April 12, 2018

Signing up for the Trofeo

I did something courageous last week. I signed up for the Trofeo di Trieste, which is a series of nine trail races around town and up in the carso. I have Always wanted to do it but felt like I needed to be in better shape to compete. I wanted to be thinner and faster and then knock everyone's socks off at race one.

Surprise suprirse...Never happened. The years continue to tick by and I just get fluffier and slower. So I decided to just sign up. I reasoned I could use the races to shame me into getting fit.

The first race was on Sunday in Basovizza. It was a 12k with about 8k of the most boring and straight trail you can imagine, not even one curve. BOOOOOOORING! The rest was a little more exciting even if there was a hill in there that kicked me in the pants pretty good.

I brought up the back pretty well, I must say. At some point I was running neck and neck with a friend of mine who has survived a stroke (hats off!!), and behind people who were about 30 years my senior. I decided to embrace the fact that I am out of shape, but I am running anyway (How do you get back into shape if you don't?).

I also had plenty of time to recognize and reflect on how many people in Trieste run these races year after year and never miss even one. There are some seriously ANCIENT runners in Trieste, and many, actually, MOST of them are kicking my ass.

Let's hope that I get my consistency on, too, and start kicking ass again, too. In the meantime, I feel very proud.

By the way, if you are interested in getting into the running life in Trieste, I highly recommend it. I have mentioned it before, but Triestini make friends through hobbies, not work. It's a great way to practice your Italian and meet new people. Italians love to run in groups, so if that is your gig, you can Always get into one of the groups that meets in Basovizza on Saturday mornings, for example, or Barcola during the week. I found they are open to new people, too. To run in the races you do have to have a medical exam and fill out specific forms, but it's Worth it.

If you are not into running, try a new sport, there are tons of groups that are willing to take you under their wing!