Finding the Right Bagno For You

It's summer here in Trieste and you know what that means: going to the "bagno." You're thinking: I do that every day several times, but in Trieste andare al bagno means to go to the beach. It's all in the preposition.

First, remember that in Trieste beach has nothing to do with sand. If you are into sand, you will have to drive an hour away to go to Grado or Lignano. If you stay in Trieste, don't say I didn't warn you, and please don't try to school me on what "beach" means because we are in Trieste and the rules are different. Here, what is normally considered a boardwalk by the sea is called a spiaggia or, in Triestino, il bagno.

Because I love you and want you to fit in, here is a trigger warning:

Do not get the Triestini started on the debate about Concrete vs. Sand because it is a battle no foreigner can win. Here are the arguments in advance.

Sand: Bad
1. Not hygienic.
2. Gets in your swimsuit and itches.
3. Prevents water from being transparent.

Cement: Good
1. Fits more people. (Carry your portable chaise-longue or brandin by your feet on your scooter)
2. Does not get in your swimsuit and/or itch.
3. Allows water to be transparent so you can see the prickly sea urchines (also an indicator of clean water) before you step on them (Don't. Trust me on this.).
4.  Provides a flat surface for your card table so you can play gnagno (which is Triestine UNO) or other card games with your deck of Triestin cards (listen up, over 75 crowd, and get there early!).

If Barcola area is your preferred beach destination, for a chance at parking, try transition times like 5am (especially if you are bringing your card table and four folding chairs), lunch time and after work.

Different areas at Barcola
        Topolini: Built by the Americans after the war, they are tiled areas where teens hang out.   
         Pineta: This part has a little pebble beach, so lots of families with small children. The wooded  area has shade, another draw for families. Don't hang up a hammock here between two trees and try to catch a nap. You could get a 300 euro fine. 

There are a few kiosk bars and you are walking distance from two pizzerias and several restaurants and an ice cream place, too.

If you are feeling athletic and want to get away from the crowds, go a little further down the road towards Sistiana with your car.

Filtri is good if you are feeling adventurous and don't mind walking. Park and take a hike down to the water and back up: more work means less people.

There are a couple options in downtown Trieste.

Pedocin: It is near the port and the Aquamarina swimming pool. You pay one euro to enter here and it is divided by gender. The women's area is crowded. The mens' part is not.
Ausonia: Also downtown, you pay to enter but have summer entertainment as well and even yoga at sunset and that type of thing.

From here, you can go to Muggia, and look for the perfect solution along the coast. There is a doggy beach near the Lido hotel, by the way.

Molo T is a nice place for kids to spash around. There is a pebble beach and also a pier for diving and clanfe.

Most beach areas in Trieste and Muggia have a bar outside but feel free to bring your own snacks.

Enjoy your summer!!
 

What? No Harriet Tubman on the Twenty?

Shame on you, Mr. President.

I have been waiting so long to see a woman on the money. Phooey.

It's not fair.

Tell me what I can knit to protest. I need a new project. This is ridiculous. 

Make Way for Goats!

I haven't been blogging lately because I have been writing more offline. I have also been getting up at 5:00 every day to run. This may sound crazy to you, but I did a little life assessment. This means I tried to remember the last time I had a surplus of energy and felt healthy and could do a million things and felt happy and fulfilled all at once. I had to go back a few years to a simpler time when it was just me in a big empty house in West Falmouth, Massachussetts. The big difference between then and now? Bed time and wake up time. At that time I was waking up at 5:00 and running until 6:30. Then I would go back home, take a shower, and go to work.

In early February I decided to give this a try. Being out of shape and a good twenty pounds (minimum) heavier, I decided to shoot lower as far as time, so I settled on one hour, which was one hour MORE than what I was doing before. I chose a start date and went for it. I use my watch as an alarm clock so I don't wake up my husband with my phone, which I charge in the kitchen. I lay everything out the night before so I get dressed automatically with no thinking necessary. This is important at 5am. When you are worried about waking other people up you can't use the snooze button, either.

At 5, the world is still sleeping. Your time is your own. After 6:30, people start wanting things from you. I run on the bike path by my house. I have a flashlight, but I don't need now like I did a couple of weeks ago.

For the most part it's just me and the birds. One day there was a red jackal on the path (I turned around and went the other way because I hadn't yet read that they normally don't attack people). Over the last two weeks I have seen jackrabbits too.

Today I didn't get to finish my whole route. I was interrupted by about two dozen GOATS on the other side of the old railroad tunnel. Hilarious. There was a dog with them, so I imagine they belong to someone. There they were. Right in the middle of the road. I thought they would go away once I got closer to them, and a couple of them did move, but most of them were more interested in whatever they eating than me. When two of them did an honest-to-God Head Butt against each other, I realized that this was a turf war that I could not, would not, did not want to win. I watched them for a while, then I turned around. 

What happiness! What energy! What a day! And all it took was a bunch of goats.